THE NAME MEANS "SUNDAY" IN ITALIAN, and partners John Besh and Alon Shaya have created a restaurant in the renovated historic Roosevelt Hotel that is as warm and inviting as a traditional Sunday supper in a rural Italian village, where each bountiful dish is lovingly prepared with the purest ingredients according to ages-old technique. Domenica's warm and welcoming dining room is anchored by a number of refectory tables for just such lively meals, and none of the restaurant's handsome wooden tables is covered with a formal cloth: instead, in keeping with the homey tone, each place is marked with a paper placemat printed with the menu. Custom-brewed beers and an Italian-focused wine list perfectly complement the rustic country fare.